Aeotec Home Energy Meter Gen5, Z-Wave Plus Smart Electricity Usage Monitor, Report Real Time Power Consumption, 1 Clamp, Detect up to 60 amps for Single Phase System

£54.995
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Aeotec Home Energy Meter Gen5, Z-Wave Plus Smart Electricity Usage Monitor, Report Real Time Power Consumption, 1 Clamp, Detect up to 60 amps for Single Phase System

Aeotec Home Energy Meter Gen5, Z-Wave Plus Smart Electricity Usage Monitor, Report Real Time Power Consumption, 1 Clamp, Detect up to 60 amps for Single Phase System

RRP: £109.99
Price: £54.995
£54.995 FREE Shipping

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Description

I then noticed the weird jagginess on the power measurements on the channel of the blue CT - removing the other CT changed its physical position on the wire. Some of the code was just to see visually what’s going on during the calibration process (easier to look at on a dashboard compared to the log file). And the threshold is also high, a small difference between readings, like 5w, will not trigger a new message.

To pair it, press and hold the button on the module for ~5seconds until the red LED starts blinking. Compatible with certified Z-Wave gateways including: Fibaro Home Centre 2, Indigo 7, HomeSeer, Vera, Open Z-Wave, OpenHub, Zipabox, Qolsys IQ Panel, Home Assistant and more.

It’s just yet another Arduino-based receiver running one of the default sketches (and one that works well and is easy to work with). Your “U” of cable that you can putting the clamp on, is probably causing some additional effects outside of the clamp that the secondary is picking up, moving it to a straight bit of cable would be my suggested fix - I see you have already noted that this has the desired effect. but you can do it you just need to separate the neutral and live wires and only clamp around one of them. Zigbee communication is handled by a Tuya ZS3L Module [ Datasheet] embedded with a 32-bit low-power Arm Cortex-M33 core, 768-KB flash memory and 64-KB RAM, which is based on a latest gen EFR32MG21 [ Datasheet] SoC by Silicon Labs.

It does all the hard work of linking the CT clamp into the D1 Mini, and it’s been built to just connect perfectly together with the D1.There is a suggestion that you split the live and neutral cables out on an extension lead, attach the clamp around the live, and then plug in a 2kW heater. I tried to describe the simple wire that forms something that looks like the letter U and hangs from the junction box. Dream Big, Start Simple: Delve deep into the strategy of initiating your smart home journey with manageable steps.



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